Archive for the ‘Nintendo’ Category

Sanyo 20EZ Video Inversion (Parts Kit) Searchable Page

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

On Bob Roberts site, there is (or was, if the link is broken) a scan of a page that details how to add the missing parts to the monitor chassis to allow it to perform video inversion.  Since the page was scanned and not run through an OCR process, the text is not searchable.  As a service to the arcade collecting/repair community, I provide this HTML based, searchable version of the document.

(Note that I am not responsible for the use or misuse of this information, and I might have copied something incorrectly!  No warranties expressed or implied, and the risk of use lies with YOU!  YMMV.) (more…)

Capping Punch-Out!!

Sunday, March 30th, 2008

Well, I finally got around to capping the two monitors on my Punch-Out!! game, and let me tell you, it is a serious pain in the ass!

It is bad enough that the Sanyo 20-EZ monitors are pains to cap in the first place, there are even more so when mounted horizontally in a narrow cabinet! Took more than three(!) hours for me to do the first (upper) one. The second one was a bit faster, clocking in at about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

A bit of hard work, to be sure, but the results speak for themselves:

Before: Top Monitor Before

After: Top Monitor Before

Also, note that there is screen burn from the collapsed line that was there before. This means that the game was in operation for a long time while it needed a cap kit!

While working on the monitor chassis boards, I was never more happy to have purchased a soldering and desoldering station a couple of years ago (shown sitting atop the Punch-Out!!):

Soldering/Desoldering Station
And here you can get a shot of how I had to work on the board – dangling out of the cabinet, wires everywhere:

PCB Hanging Out
Oh, and how do ‘ya like my nice little way of securing the PCB in the air while I work on it? :)

Much thanks go to The Real Bob RobertsTM for the cap kits (I purchased the 20EZ Plus kit, which has 9 additional chassis caps), and to Brien King (no, I did not misspell Brien), which has a step-by-step guide to getting the chassis PCB out of the Sanyo 20-EZ monitor at Arcade Restoration Workshop. I used the document for the first monitor, and tackled the second one from memory.

I also cleaned and changed the spring on the joystick. It is no longer as sticky as it was before thanks to getting all that old dirty grease out of it. However, it is still far too loose for my taste. It is playable, and I have played games in the arcade in far worse condition, but it still would be nice to have it a bit stiffer.

Also replaced the batteries in it so that the high score table works correctly again. Surprisingly, there is not a lot of corrosion in there.

OK – I think it may be ready to sell soon…!

Punch-Out vertical foldover/overdraw

Monday, May 21st, 2007

The Punch-out that I recently obtained has a monitor issue (a monitors issue, really). Both displays are bring drawn starting ~2″ from the bottom of the monitor, and the upper few inches are being overdrawn on the same horizontal plane.

In other words, the beam is scanning left/right correctly but is starting too low and is not going high enough (vertically) to complete drawing the image correctly – the beam stops going up and keeps trying to draw the rest of the screen on the same horizontal line, causing a higher-intensity line to be seen (images below, apologies for their quality – I guess I shoulda taken off the Plexiglas first).

Top Monitor Overdraw Bottom Monitor Overdraw

The overdraw is visible in the image, but it is not obvious from the images that the bottom of the image is ~2″ higher than it should be. The overdraw looks like a classic capacitor problem to me, although I admit that I am not that familiar with the “starting too high” problem and I am guessing that the two are related. At least, the two things being related kinda makes sense in my mind…

I have cap kits from The Real Bob RobertsTM (highly recommended for all kinds of arcade-related parts, BTW!) for the monitors and will be capping them shortly.

More to follow…


Sunday, May 20th, 2007

Problem: Dead

Purchased a Punch-Out in dead condition.  Got it home, still dead.  Rocking the game and/or whacking the sides a bit got a brief flash of light on it so I went in and reconnected all connectors.  Game then came up right after that.

A little adjustment to the micro-switch arms and the game is playing nicely.  Still need to rebuild the joystick as it is stiff and sticks a bit.

Solution: Re-tighten/reattach all (power?) connectors