Can you “Bulletproof” an Atari AR-II Power Supply? I Think I Can…

Well, like the title initially asks, can you really “bulletproof” an Atari AR-II board?  From what I have found on the Internet, and older material like Star Tech Journals, the answer really is no.  Pretty much all sources that mention “bulletproof” and “AR-II” on the same page are only taking about performing the Sense mods, and nothing else.

A small amount of pages mention replacing parts (caps, regulators, etc.) due to their age, but that is not bulletproofing either – that is just a good idea.  But I think I can actually bulletproof it, and maybe other power supplies as well.

Continue reading “Can you “Bulletproof” an Atari AR-II Power Supply? I Think I Can…”

WG6100 w/Tempest Showing a Tangled Mess in the Bottom Right Quadrant

So this is basically the second part of a previous post about a tempest that lost deflection.

After running for a while that Tempest’s display changed into something that can only be described as a tangled mess:

Tempest Tangle Edition
Tempest Tangle

That is something that I never had seen before.  The owner turned the game off and back on again later that day and it was working normally.  Then it would get screwed up again.

Continue reading “WG6100 w/Tempest Showing a Tangled Mess in the Bottom Right Quadrant”

WG6100 w/Tempest Showing a Multicolored spot in Center of Screen

So I was helping a newly minted arcade game owner when his first purchase, which is his favorite arcade game: Tempest.  Shortly after getting it the X-Size pot fell apart and the game ended up only showing a Multicolored spot (larger than a just a “dot”) which changed depending on what the game was doing.  We soldered in a larger replacement (dangling from some wires) but while this did change the display a little when the pot was articulated, it did not fix the problem.

He had joined a FB arcade repair group and asked for help there and ended up with ideas ranging from his brightness being too high (it was not – I think the person that responded thought the game was drawing normally but with retrace lines and a white dot in the middle, kind of like how it looks when you’re drawing on an oscilloscope with no Z input), voltages too low (they were not), and one even going down the path of impending AR-II failure(!) and going on about replacing leaky sense resistors and the bottlecap transistor.  Oy vey!

Continue reading “WG6100 w/Tempest Showing a Multicolored spot in Center of Screen”

Lithium Battery Replacement for Williams and other CMOS Systems

So you have decided to reduce the risk of battery leakage damaging your precious Williams arcade or pinball board by replacing the existing AA batteries with a lithium (CR2032) replacement.  Great!  Lithium batteries like the CR2032 tend to leak much less than alkaline batteries so this is a good generally a good idea.

Note that I said much less than alkaline batteries – lithium batteries can still leak causing damage to your PCB!
You need to maintain them like any other battery system.

So now the question is, how long will the lithium battery last before it needs to be replaced?  I would suggest that you replace the battery as soon as it voltage-under-load drops to 2.8v.  Why 2.8?  Two good reasons.  First, here is a discharge graph pulled from the Energizer CR2032 datasheet: Continue reading “Lithium Battery Replacement for Williams and other CMOS Systems”

+43 Volt Error on a Alltek Systems Replacement MPU Board

So I was helping another collector in the area try to get a Bally Star Trek Pinball running. It had a Alltek MPU replacement board it in that would start to boot but then stop with 5 diagnostic flashes which indicate a problem with the +43v supply. However, when metered at the test point, the +43v looked grossly normal.

Got in touch with Alltek Systems support and the person suggested disconnecting the sound board and seeing what happened. The game came up with it disconnected, and the support person said there was something wrong with the +43v stuff on the sound board. Right where it comes in there is a diode (CR3) that the collector tested open one way, and about 94k ohms the other.

So a good diagnostic step for this kind of hardware, perhaps even with the original boards in it, is to completely disconnect the sound board and see if the behavior of the game changes.

Update: when I returned to that collector’s house, we lifted one end of the diode and tested it again.  Tested open one way but with a lower-than-expected forward voltage drop of about .350v where we expected more for a standard 1N4004 diode.  I called it bad and pulled the diode.  Had the collector solder in a replacement and the Star Trek came right up!

Frogger Problems

So I visited the arcade of someone I have come to know and while taking a look around and playing a few games, I stumbled across this screen on a Frogger:

Not exactly playable, if you catch my drift.  Went over the usual stuff, power, reseating, etc.  Voltage was a little low, and the power supply could use some maintenance because of a bit of ripple.  But was able to get it back up again.  When it booted, it booted into an odd screen and I realized it had some kind of HS kit in it.  This was actually nice because it included a RAM and ROM test that showed everything passed.

Went into the game and coined it up to play, and saw this:

Pretty sure that we do not want that many lives per game.  Seeing that this was a pretty strange issue, I thought to reconfigure things in the HS kit.  After readjusting things to 3 lives per game, saving the changes and restarting the game:

Much better, eh?

After fixing something, always be sure to actually try to play it and make sure everything is working right.

Dead Vanguard Board

So I came across a dead Vanguard that was for sale.  Described as only producing a boom sound effect and then a rumbling/static-y noise.  Bought the thing home along with 1.5 spare boards and did the usual checks: Power, Sockets (reseat), etc.  Logic probe on the CPU indicated that it was briefly running and then getting hung up and it looks like there is no watchdog on this game.  The sounds being made were from the sound board, which produces its noises without the main CPU being present at all.

Power takes a little longer than I would like to stabilize (several seconds), and was a tad low on the board, but adjusting it did not change anything.  It looks like the factory switching supply so it likely could use a cap job.

I got memory map information from MAME to try to figure out the memory map, and got a manual for the game.  The manual actually includes a memory map as well as which RAM chips are use in which RAM areas, which is really nice.

Connected up the Fluke 9010 and hit the Learn function.  When it was done, I noticed that the results did not match the memory map in the manual.  The first RAM section (CPU Work RAM) was not identified at all.  Turns out that section had stuck bits (2 & 3).  Replaced the socket and the RAM and the game mostly roared to life, with the exception of the power stabilization issue – it takes a few seconds after being initially powered on before the game will run stable so you have to cycle power several seconds after initially powering it up.  Monitor could use a cap kit but is in decent condition for its age.

Gonna hit that second board in the near future, initial tests show bit 8 is stuck high.

Williams Hardware, Switchers and CMOS

So this keeps coming up a few times a year, almost like people completely forget about how to use Google every now and then.

Someone has a Williams 6809 hardware game like Defender, Stargate, Joust, etc.  They install a switcher instead of repairing the existing linear supply (which is  OK, people have their reasons), and everything works great, except for the fact that they occasionally get CMOS corruption and lose things like settings, bookeeping, and scores.

Is something wrong with the switcher?  No, something is just wrong with the CPU.

Continue reading “Williams Hardware, Switchers and CMOS”

Watchdogging and Corrupted Centipede (Bad POKEY)

Got to work on a busted Centipede that booted to a white background screen that briefly showed the start of the attract mode (things drawn in green or purple) before crashing, watchdogging and doing it all over again.  Test mode would do the same thing as well.

Disabling the watchdog (by grounding the WDDIS test point) did not help as the game would just essentially do the same things but just not reset after it crashed.

Continue reading “Watchdogging and Corrupted Centipede (Bad POKEY)”

Dead Gorf

So I found a dead Gorf on Craigslist.  It was an older ad, but was still available when I inquired.  Dude I picked it up from had done some pretty impressive restorations on some other games.

Anyway – it was dead alright.  Shows a blank screen that looked overly blue due to how the monitor was adjusted, no starfield was visible.  Slid the test switch over and power-cycled, but this made no difference either.

The previous owner had mentioned that he had done some work on it.  I saw some of his other previous work on other boards of his and while not perfect (some cold joints, or not enough solder in some places leaving “pits”), it was not horrible and definitely no worse than what I was doing when I started out.

Anyhoo, starting with the power PCB – the previous owner said he had already replaced the caps, but I wanted a second look at it, JIC.  On the solder side of the board, some larger traces has been lifted off the board during some previous repair work (I do not think it was his, maybe someone before him?).

It looked like the someone used a serious soldering gun to do the work, because there were scorch marks on the board(!) and flux was all over the older work too.  Continuity was where it was supposed to be, so I guess that while it was ugly, it worked. Continue reading “Dead Gorf”

Bringing Joust Back to Life

So it came to pass that I ended up with three cabinets for $100 each.  A Great Golf in a Midway cabaret, some Toaplan run-n-gun in a Taito Qix cabinet, and… A Joust(!) in its original cabinet.

I agreed to purchase all three sight-unseen.  When I get them all home, the golf game worked except for a rolling screen, the run-n-gun has an board issue where some sprites are being displayed at the wrong horizontal locations, and the Joust?

Well, the Joust was dead.  Simple static video (monitor needs a cap kit, too), watchdog barking, no response to  inputs, nothing on the LED on the ROM board.

Image-She's dead, Jim!
She’s dead, Jim!

Continue reading “Bringing Joust Back to Life”

Joust Showing 1 3 5 and a REALLY Effed-Up Screen

[This was extracted from a large article about getting a dead Joust operational.  I thought it made sense to put this part in its own post to help anyone else with a similar issue.  This post may reference content from an earlier post, so keep that in mind when reading.]

So at this point the Joust will run through its self-tests, show 1 3 5 on the LED, and will eventually enter attract mode and can even be coined up and it will play for a few seconds before crashing again.  While the screen is AFU, you can actually read text on it if you look carefully (just turn the audio off).  Pay attention to how the left 1/3 screen is being drawn differently than the rest – this becomes important later:

Continue reading “Joust Showing 1 3 5 and a REALLY Effed-Up Screen”

Joust With an Input Problem – 1st Player Always Runs Left

[This was extracted from a large article about getting a dead Joust operational.  I thought it made sense to put this part in its own post to help anyone else with a similar issue.  It may reference content from the previous two posts here and here.]

…So now I have a Joust that boots correctly and comes up into its attract mode normally.  However, after coining it up and starting a game, I still have some issues – player 1 starts running to the left non-stop!

Opening the control panel shows the switch is not stuck, and disconnecting its harness did not change the behavior, so I have another board-level issue to resolve.  The input board multiplexes two sets of switches into a 6821 PIA, and the switches come in through one of two header connectors on the board.

Continue reading “Joust With an Input Problem – 1st Player Always Runs Left”

Sanyo 20EZ Video Inversion (Parts Kit) Searchable Page

On Bob Roberts site, there is (or was, if the link is broken by the time you read this) a scan of a page that details how to add the missing parts to the Sanyo 20-EZ monitor chassis to allow it to perform video inversion.  Since the page was scanned and not run through an OCR process, the text is not searchable.  As a service to the arcade collecting/repair community, I provide this HTML based, searchable version of the document.

(Note that I am not responsible for the use or misuse of this information, and I might have copied something incorrectly!  No warranties expressed or implied, and the risk of use lies with YOU!  YMMV.) Continue reading “Sanyo 20EZ Video Inversion (Parts Kit) Searchable Page”

Merit Megatouch 5 Issues

Offered to help out a friend whose husband had an upright Megatouch 5 (CRT-260 motherboard) that had some issues:

  1. Would randomly crash when touching the touchscreen
  2. Would randomly hang or crash even when left alone
  3. After left running for a little while (like, 15 minutes) calibration would “drift,” causing touches to track incorrectly

After opening it up, the touchscreen was covered in dust and the neoprene strips on the edges of it were pretty torn up and had a bunch of debris on them.  Cleaning the screen, strips, and then reapplying the strips with some thin double-sided tape cleared up the touch-the-screen-and-it-dies problem. Continue reading “Merit Megatouch 5 Issues”

Hopper Error (HE) on Sammy Aladdin Pachislo Machine

I picked this one up last year with a generic E1 error code for $50.  Reseating all connectors and performing a master reset (reset key in and turned, internal power switch cycled, reset key removed) brought it right up.  Been working fine for a little over a year then the hopper quit working.  Display would show “HE” when it tried to spit out tokens.

Removed hopper and inspected it – nothing jammed up, and all switches/optos in the bottom were functioning correctly.  When the hopper is started (using the switch within the cabinet), it moves just a slight amount.  Removing the motor shows that the motor spins about 1/3-1/4 rotation and then stops, with no resistance on the gear/spindle when I turn it manually.  If I leave the motor powered, I can start to smell that electrical smell that tells me something is bad within the motor. Continue reading “Hopper Error (HE) on Sammy Aladdin Pachislo Machine”

Dig Dug with Floating Pins

Going through my boards, I came across a second Dig Dug board.  This one boots to static garbage and no sound.    Watchdog is barking.

Removing one of the CPUs gets different garbage.  Tried replacing with a known good one, no change.

Checking the pins shows me that a couple of the data lines, from D3 to D6 (I cannot remember which ones right now) are completely floating!  Rarely see that.  On a hunch, I replace the CPU’s socket, but this changes nothing.

Board traces go two a few chips (a 7474 and some other multiplexers or demultiplexers), and the floating lines seem to follow them.  But following the traces is tricky, so I gotta dig up some schematics to see what the Hell is going on.

Roc’N Rope PCB Issues

Got an interesting problem with a Roc’N Rope board that I recently connected up to the new JAMMA test rig.  It has all its sounds, and plays correctly, but the text and tiles (e.g. the title graphics and the graphics used to build the levels) are all upside-down!

When the screen is flipped for cocktail mode, the text/tiles are still upside down.

Going digging through the schematics to see what’s what…

Update!

Mark Spaeth gave me a lead on a couple chips on the board that may be the cause of the problem.  That, combined with the schematics lead me to find out that I had a 74174 with a stuck output (pin 10).  I first clipped and lifted the pin for that specific output to ensure that nothing else was pulling the output and confirmed that the chip was bad.

After clipping and desoldering  the chip and replacing it with a socketed NOS 74174, all of the text and tiles are right side up again!

RnR Fixed

Also, I found out that I have another RnR board, this one with a graphics issue involving the sprites.  Should be able to get that one fixed as well, and then I will have two original RnR boards (both with their original serial number stickers on ’em).

OK – this other RnR board just had to have some of its chips cleaned and/or reseated.  It is looking good now as well:

Second RnR Board

 Nutshell: Flipped tiles and text, cause was a 74174 at location G15 with a stuck output @ pin 10.

Centipede Cocktails — Cocktail #2

My previous post, about Cocktail #1, clearly documents the “easy one.”   This second one is gonna be another story.  It has a very dead monitor, and a non-functional board.  I have not yet benched the monitor, but it has no neck glow, which is never a good sign.

The board has problems, but at least I know it is not the CPU as I already swapped it, and I know that it is not a power problem on the second Cocktail, because the board has the same behavior in Cocktail #1.

Swapped all socketed chips to no effect — they all work on the other board.  Power points seemed right on the board, but I put it into my working cabinet to verify… and while doing so I managed to cross GND with a +5v trace and smoked R30 quite nicely on my AR-II board.

I have replaced it, but am still getting voltages that are too high.  Gonna have to hunt other likley suspects…

As far as the board goes, I am gonna have to break out the Fluke 9010 to work on this one…  Right after building an adapter for it so I cam power it up on the bench.

The monitor I should know more about once I have it on the bench and take a good look at it while I am capping it (and doing the sync upgrade).

—–

Turns out that this one had a cracked flyback.  I ordered a replacement kit (flyback and caps) from The Real Bob Roberts and replaced the flyback (my first flyback replacement!).  Have not yet put it back into the game and fired it up, though.  Maybe after winter…

Centipede Cocktails — Cocktail #1

Well, I ended up taking two Centipede cocktails off of another local collector as a package deal.  Still want that Gorf, though…  Will have to come back to that one soon!

But I digress…  So I have two Centipede cocktails here.  One of them has a dead monitor (and a non-working board, I later discovered), and the other will not sync:

Centipede #1 - No Sync

(Note how dirty the control panel is, as well as the color of the button and trackball to compare with another picture later in this post.)  Checked the wiring, the connectors, adjustments/controls and nothing would get it right, so I went to capping it.  Here is a picture of it half way done on my bench:

downsized_1203091924

After capping it (and also doing the sync improvement upgrade while I was there), all it took was a few adjustments and the screen came up sharp and clear.  This image also shows one of the rebuilt trackballs, which is now running as smooth as when it came out of the crate:

1203092025_rot

 The text looks a bit blurry, but only in the picture.  The screen is really sharp!  You can also see a new shiny trackball at the bottom too.  Next to it is a really dirty button.  Here is one of the panels (from the other cocktail, because its panels are in better condition) with a replacement button and a (unmounted) rebuilt trackball after being cleaned up a bit:

1203092142

All in all, not bad for about 3 or so hours of work, if I do say so myself.  (3 hours for everything, not just cleaning this panel! 🙂

Now, that other cocktail… that one is gonna be a bit harder…

Capping Punch-Out!!

Results of installing cap kits on both monitors in a Punch-Out!!

Well, I finally got around to capping the two monitors on my Punch-Out!! game, and let me tell you, it is a serious pain in the ass!

It is bad enough that the Sanyo 20-EZ monitors are pains to cap in the first place, there are even more so when mounted horizontally in a narrow cabinet! Took more than three(!) hours for me to do the first (upper) one. The second one was a bit faster, clocking in at about 1 hour and 45 minutes.

A bit of hard work, to be sure, but the results speak for themselves:

Before: Top Monitor Before
 

After: Top Monitor Before

Also, note that there is screen burn from the collapsed line that was there before. This means that the game was in operation for a long time while it needed a cap kit!

While working on the monitor chassis boards, I was never more happy to have purchased a soldering and desoldering station a couple of years ago (shown sitting atop the Punch-Out!!):

Soldering/Desoldering Station
And here you can get a shot of how I had to work on the board – dangling out of the cabinet, wires everywhere:

PCB Hanging Out
Oh, and how do ‘ya like my nice little way of securing the PCB in the air while I work on it? 🙂

Much thanks go to The Real Bob RobertsTM for the cap kits (I purchased the 20EZ Plus kit, which has 9 additional chassis caps), and to Brien King (no, I did not misspell Brien), which has a step-by-step guide to getting the chassis PCB out of the Sanyo 20-EZ monitor at Arcade Restoration Workshop. I used the document for the first monitor, and tackled the second one from memory.

I also cleaned and changed the spring on the joystick. It is no longer as sticky as it was before thanks to getting all that old dirty grease out of it. However, it is still far too loose for my taste. It is playable, and I have played games in the arcade in far worse condition, but it still would be nice to have it a bit stiffer.

Also replaced the batteries in it so that the high score table works correctly again. Surprisingly, there is not a lot of corrosion in there.

OK – I think it may be ready to sell soon…!

Sprint 2 – Stiff Steering and Hard Shifting

Problem: Stiff spinning steering modules and hard shifting between gears

(Quick little story – while bringing this beast into its location, I fell and got pinned under it for a few minutes. It is amazing how much having your chest compressed effects your ability to call out for help! 🙂

OK – onto the next issue… Its steering wheels were pretty stiff, and if you tried to give them a good hard spin they would come to a halt within a couple of turns. Removing and disassembling them was easy. Turns out the problem was that the old grease in them had coagulated/thickened so that it was about as viscous and sticky as cold honey!

Getting the grease out of the barrel and off of the shaft and sleeves literally took ~10 minutes (for each module) with some rubbing alcohol, elbow grease and rags. I had a friend helping me (Sean) and we each tackled one sterring wheel each.

After getting that old gunk out, a quick application of some light lithium grease on everything solves that problem – the wheels will now spin for at least 10 turns easily.

For the shifter modules, I just applied some powered graphite to the shifter “ball” at the opening of the shifter and after a few shifts to get it all around, the shifts are much easier now.

Solution: Cleaned and lubricated the steering modules, lubricated the shifter modules.

Note: One of the steering modules has a broken shaft/cone, which caused the wheel to be off-center, and it was being held in place strictly by the force of the retaining bolt that goes through the entire assembly. I managed to get it a bit straighter than it was before, but it still is broken internally. Not sure if I want to go through sanding down the two halves to try to get them melded or epoxied together – I am afraid of shortening the cone too much and causing problems. The wheel works and the game is playable, so I might just leave it as it is.

Punch-Out vertical foldover/overdraw

The Punch-out that I recently obtained has a monitor issue (a monitors issue, really). Both displays are bring drawn starting ~2″ from the bottom of the monitor, and the upper few inches are being overdrawn on the same horizontal plane.

In other words, the beam is scanning left/right correctly but is starting too low and is not going high enough (vertically) to complete drawing the image correctly – the beam stops going up and keeps trying to draw the rest of the screen on the same horizontal line, causing a higher-intensity line to be seen (images below, apologies for their quality – I guess I shoulda taken off the Plexiglas first).

Top Monitor Overdraw Bottom Monitor Overdraw

The overdraw is visible in the image, but it is not obvious from the images that the bottom of the image is ~2″ higher than it should be. The overdraw looks like a classic capacitor problem to me, although I admit that I am not that familiar with the “starting too high” problem and I am guessing that the two are related. At least, the two things being related kinda makes sense in my mind…

I have cap kits from The Real Bob RobertsTM (highly recommended for all kinds of arcade-related parts, BTW!) for the monitors and will be capping them shortly.

More to follow…

Sprint 2

Bringing home a non-working Atari/Kee Games Sprint 2 and getting it running

Problem: Static garbage on screen

Purchased a Sprint 2 in non-working condition. Saw a picture of it, monitor worked – it showing what appeared to be static garbage on it. Got it home and confirmed that yes, it is showing static garbage (first image below). Turning it off for a couple of seconds and then back on again keeps pretty much the same garbage display, but sometimes gets some sounds out of it (engine and/or screeching sounds). Moving the self-test switch does nothing. First suspect that CPU is not running, because the screen is static (i.e. not changing while the game is on).

Sprint 2 - Before

After checking the usual suspects (voltages, loose wires, harness/wire burns because this is an older Atari game…), I yank the CPU to see if I get the same results (to narrow it down to the CPU). This causes a different effect, a screen filled with a single character and I get sound, so I presume for now that the CPU is working and the problem lies elsewhere.

Continue reading “Sprint 2”

Punch-Out

Problem: Dead

Purchased a Punch-Out in dead condition.  Got it home, still dead.  Rocking the game and/or whacking the sides a bit got a brief flash of light on it so I went in and reconnected all connectors.  Game then came up right after that.

A little adjustment to the micro-switch arms and the game is playing nicely.  Still need to rebuild the joystick as it is stiff and sticks a bit.

Solution: Re-tighten/reattach all (power?) connectors

Goindol

Repair Log for a Goindol board…

Problem: Board boots but does not complete POST. Halts with some on screen garbage displaying BAD ROM 5 on more often than not. ROMs were clearly marked on the board, so I yanked ROM 5, read it and ran it through ROMCMP. It came up as unknown. Sounds bad to me!

Located a replacement ROM image and burned to a new EPROM (uh, after finding a replacement EPROM that would erase and burn correctly – that took a good hour and change). Verified the new EPROM was correct, loaded it into the game and…

BAD ROM 5

OK… I pull the board and start a visual inspection. Notice a section of the board with about 5 or 6 scratched traces. Two of them are broken (no continuity). Jumped them with some wire-wrap wire and the board comes right up! I do not yet have a way to test inputs yet, though…

Solution: Reburned ROM 5, jumped two broken traces. (Inputs unknown.)

Unknown Atari Kangaroo Board

Atari Kangaroo – After watching the attract mode for a little bit (~30 seconds), the game started to show some visual artifacts on the RHS of the screen. They were horizontal blurbs that looked like multicolor static. However, each of the blurbs, while in a random vertical location, were identical.

I bought two or three sets of unknown/untested/bad boards sometime last year. I have recently started going through them to determine the severity of their problem(s). (This is taking a surprisingly long amount of time due to the time it takes to create a JAMMA adapters for each unique interface! :/ )

Anyhoo, I came across a complete, intact Kangaroo board last weekend! After creating a minimal adapter (Power and Video), the board came right up! I tried its self-test and it passed. After watching the attract mode for a little bit (~30 seconds), the game started to show some visual artifacts on the RHS of the screen. They were horizontal blurbs that looked like multicolor static. However, each of the blurbs, while in a random vertical location, were identical.

Continue reading “Unknown Atari Kangaroo Board”

Cook Race (bootleg Burgertime)

Some sprites are missing, but still in the game. For example, when you throw the Pepper, it is not drawn on the screen, but it still stuns the bad guys. One or two of the bad guys are also invisible, so Peter Pepper can effectively get killed by nothing!

Game does not draw garbage where these graphics/sprites should be, they are just never drawn at all, and they do not disrupt the background graphics (i.e. they are completely transparent) so I do not think that it is a ROM or RAM problem.

Not knowing too much about this kind of problem, my first guess is that the specific sprite(s) are not getting their data placed in the appropriate spot when it comes time to draw the required sprites. For example, they are not getting selected by a latch that determines if it should draw the sprite’s colors, or draw the background (in transparent parts of the sprite). So into the schematics I go…

Solution: None yet.

Update #1: Well, fat lot of good that did. I could only find schematics for Burgertime, and not even the cassette version (which the Cook Race hardware seems to follow) for that matter. This one is starting to collect dust on the shelf.

Update #2: David Widel said on his web page (www.widel.com) that he was looking for a Cook Race board. I contacted him about it and he said that he would be interested in it so I gave it to him. Better to further the arcade/multigame cause than to have it sitting on my shelf collecting dust.

Dig-Dug (“Has a ROM Error”)

Purchased described as “Has a ROM error“. Started by creating a JAMMA adapter, and then read the EPROM at 2E, it was not found under Romident, burned and installed a replacement. No change. Removed and read all ROMs in row/column 2, and all but one of them failed to be identified by Romident, burned and installed 5 more replacements, working! Still have to wire up an amplifier to correctly test the sound, but looks good so far.

[07/30/03] I finally found the brain cell that got me to realize that I could use my inductive listener (a telecom tool, often used with a tone tracer) to test the sound. It works!

Solution: Replaced bad ROMs

(Recently, the board is starting to develop an intermittent problem with a bad socket. I am going to replace it as the first use of my soon-to-be-here combination soldering/desoldering station.)